Connect with us: (720)645-1642 Book An Appointment

curl pattern

Tags Archive Page

The Glorious Originality of Your Curly Hair

Your curl pattern is as unique as your fingerprint. This is reason enough to embrace your curls and show them off to the world. I have done the hair of over 5,000 curly haired women and men, and I assure you that no two heads of curly hair are alike. Your curls are an expression of your individuality.

To me, curly hair is the most beautiful type of hair. I find beauty in it’s spontaneity, originality and wildness. Yet, so often do I hear my clients say “I want her curls” as they point to a photo on their phone or to some other woman in the salon. That is like saying “I want her fingerprint.” It’s impossible!

The beauty of nature is indisputable. Everybody is awed by a colorful sunset, the expanse of an ocean and the waves crashing to the shore, the sight of gigantic mountains, a flower filled valley, and the sensations of a passing stream. To me, the beauty of nature comes from its wildness. The same applies to your curly hair. Your hair is a force of nature and so it is different every day. Although many of my clients want me to “tame” their curls, I tell them it can’t be done. I can shape your curls, nourish your waves, and create a look that you will probably like more often than not. But there is no way that I am going to tame your curls.

No matter how hard you try to control your hair, something will come along to unleash the wildness of your waves. The humidity of the air, for example, or a gust of wind. Your hair has a silent bond with the natural world that can never be controlled. And I assure you, your curls are powerful. It is in the wildness of your hair that your physical being unites with your spirit. I think this is why so many woman treasure every last millimeter of it. The golden light of your soul is expressing itself through your gloriously wild hair. How lucky you are to have a physical expression of your spirit framing your face every day.

How To Eliminate “The Shelf” In Your Curly Hair

I had a client the other day who came to me for the first time. She was a beautiful woman in her mid-20s, and when she sat down in my chair I admired her curly hair. All curly girls have a unique curl pattern and like most curly girls, she had different curl types throughout her head. She had loose (2B) curls at the nape of her neck, medium size (2C) curls at the crown of her head, and tighter (3A) curls framing her face. I love this variance in curl texture and told her that I thought her hair was beautiful. Too me, the variance in curl pattern is what makes curly hair so attractive. Your curl pattern is as unique as your fingerprint, and no one else has your exact curl pattern.  

“I hate the curls around my face,” was the first thing she said. I examined the way her hair had been cut before and I could see why she was frustrated. The tighter curls around her face sprung up higher than the looser curls below them and created a “shelf”. All curly girls hate “the shelf” which looks like an upside down letter “L” on the side of their head. 

“It seems like I always have these shelves on the side of my head,” she said in exasperation. “Can you please get rid of them?” she pleaded. 

I explained to her why her hair formed a shelf. It is common mistake that hairstylists make who don’t understand how to cut curly hair that has differing curl patterns throughout the head. 

There are three primary reasons why a shelf is created in curly hair. The first and most common mistake that hairstylists make that creates a shelf, is cutting curly hair when it is wet. The problem with cutting curly hair when it is wet is that there is no way for the hairstylists to see how high the different curls will spring up when they are dry. And the problem is made even worse if some curls are tighter than others, because the tight curls will spring up higher than the looser curls. If the curls that frame the face are tighter than the curls below them, this is a guaranteed way to create a shelf. 

The second way that a shelf is created is when all the hair is directed straight up and the hair is cut square to the top of the head. Unless you are Sasquatch and you have long hair growing on your ears and on your cheeks, then cutting your hair this way will always result in a shelf on the sides of your head. To avoid this, the hair that frames your face must be left out and cut separately from the hair that is directed upward.

I will discuss the third mistake later. So back to my client with her unwanted hair shelf problem. To eliminate her shelves, I first framed her face by taking diagonal sections from her part to her ear, directing her curls slightly forward and down and cutting with zero tension. Then I moved to the back of her head to cut her looser 2B curls. I took horizontal partings from her nape and worked my way up the back of her head always cutting with zero tension until I was satisfied with the density of the perimeter of her hair. Then I began elevating her hair and continued cutting her slightly tighter 2c curls, again using no tension. I proceeded in this way up to the top of her head being careful to leave out the curls that I had already cut around her face. 

After shampooing, conditioning and styling her hair curly, I asked her to stand up so I could do some finishing touches on her haircut. Forgetting to do this part of the haircut is the third reason that a shelf is not spotted and eliminated. I asked her to stand up, and then flip her head forward allowing her hair to hang down. I looked at her hair from this angle and cut any extraneous curls that I may have missed in the earlier part of the haircut. Then I asked her to tilt her head to each side so I could make sure that her curls fall nicely along the side of her face and the tighter curls blend in nicely with the looser ones. If there is a shelf there, then this is a sure way to spot it. 

I then asked her to sit back down in the chair, applied some Natulique Organic Ultra Shine Spray and handed her a mirror so that she could look at her new haircut.

“I love it! The shelf is gone!” she exclaimed happily.

Mission accomplished.

New Year’s Resolutions for Your Curls

New year, new you, right? Well, if you’ve struggled with getting your curls to cooperate, are tired of fighting frizz, or if you’ve spent years straightening your curls away, it can be! Just like any other New Year’s Resolution, transitioning into a new lifestyle has some challenges. But, if you’re looking to finally embrace your naturally curly or wavy hair, then these tips are for you!

How to Embrace Your Naturally Curly Hair in 2018

1. Get to know your curl type

The first step to successfully accomplishing any goal is to know what you’re up against. The same is true for your curly hair, and there is more than one type of curly. Naturally Curly has a great curl quiz that can help you determine your curl type. Keep in mind, if you’ve been straightening out your curls for a while, they may need time to bounce back, so your curl type could change.

2. Become a stalker

If you’ve ever snooped on a friend (read: ex) on social media, you’re a step ahead (go you!). For real, though, you’re going to want to start collecting some info in order to take action. So, start with some recon on your curls. Take notice of how your curls behave. Do they frizz out after only half a day? Does your scalp get oily with certain products? This will help you determine what your curls need.

3. Stop washing your hair

No, you don’t need to stop washing your hair forever. But, you really only need to wash your hair when it’s actually dirty or you’re experiencing build-up. Depending on your curl type, lifestyle and which products you use, that could be anywhere from 2-3 days to 2-3 weeks! The curlier it is, the less you’ll need to wash Experiment with your schedule and don’t wash your until it gets dirty – see how long you can go!

4. Cut out the suds

You’ll probably notice that curly hair shampoo isn’t really shampoo in the traditional sense. That’s because the chemicals that create those suds also happen to strip out your natural oils. Curly and wavy hair is typically drier than straighter hair, so you definitely need to protect the moisture that you do have! Try looking for a no-poo shampoo or try out co-washing, where you skip the shampoo altogether and just ‘wash’ with conditioner. Fair warning, your hair will be greasier at first until your curls stop over-producing those oils your old shampoo has been stripping out.

5. Reward good behavior

Now that you know your curl type and what your curls want from you, you can reward those curls for their good behavior. And what do curls love? Moisture! Look at product lines specifically designed for curly and wavy hair (like DevaCurl and Ouidad). These will be packed with moisture and help your curls find their natural balance. Curly product lines are usually developed cohesively, so you’ll see better results by remaining brand loyal. That said, find the products that work for you and your hair, and you’ll never have to look back.

6. Invest in 1 amazing tool

Learning how to use temperature to harvest your curls will serve you well, especially when setting your curls. Ideally, you should always dry your curls under a cool dryer for an hour (or more), but nobody’s got time for that. Instead, invest in the one tool that will make your curls look ah-maz-ing in 20 mins or less. A diffuser or diffuser attachment on your hairdryer is a miracle worker. You never want to blow hot air at your curls, which is why you don’t want to use the standard hairdryer’s mouthpiece: that just causes frizz.

7. Learn the hacks

Pineapple, Plopping, Satin Sleeping: what do these things have in common? They’re all curly hair hacks that can seriously improve your curls. How you wash, dry, comb, and sleep on your hair definitely impact your curls. That means it’s time to get your study on! Swap your towel for a t-shirt. Sleep on a satin pillow. Pile your hair on top of your head like a pineapple before you go to bed. Don’t brush your curls, finger through them with a wide-toothed comb. And there are so many more!

8. Find a stylist who knows curly hair

We’ve all had bad haircuts, but curlies have had more than their fair share. This is simply because cutting curly hair is completely different from cutting straight hair. For starters, you often cut curly hair dry. Find a stylist who’s received curly hair training, or better yet, specializes in curly hair. These stylists will not only know how to cut your hair based on your curl pattern in style that frames your face, but they’ll also be able to give you tips on curl care and product lines.

Have you made the transition to naturally curly? What was the hardest part? What did you wish you had known?

The Difference Between The Deva Cut and Ouidad Haircut

Many of my curly haired clients ask me what the difference is between the Deva Cut and the Ouidad Haircut. Having been trained and certified in both techniques, I am qualified to answer this question. In this article, I don’t intend to give my opinion of which method that I prefer, I will simply explain the differences.

Before the Cut

Both techniques claim to be the best method of cutting naturally curly hair, yet they are extremely different. Before cutting the hair, both the Deva and the Ouidad technique requires the hairstylist to perform a thorough examination of the hair. The Stylist looks for differing curl patterns throughout the head, noting density, shape and hairline patterns. Face shape and body shape are always taken into consideration when determining the most attractive hair cut. Once the unique attributes of the client are assessed, then a hair design plan is created that will accentuate attractive features and detract from unappealing ones.

Deva Cut Method

The Deva Philosophy

A hairstylist who employs the Deva cutting method will always cut the hair dry, cutting each curl ringlet by ringlet. The hairstylist cuts the ends of the hair, never texturizing or thinning the hair. The philosophy behind this is that slicing into the interior of a curly haircut has the potential to create frizz.

The Deva Technique

In the Deva technique, a perimeter is established first, usually starting around the face and then going the sides and toward the back. Curl pattern and density are analyzed to determine where on the head to begin elevating and creating layers. Thinner hair will require a greater percentage of the hair to fall to the perimeter to create a fuller look. If the hair is thin, then a smaller percentage of the hair will be available to create elevation and interior movement. Thick hair necessitates the opposite and elevation can begin farther down the nape. When done well, the final result will be hair that lays in an attractive shape and accentuates the unique curl pattern of the individual.

Ouidad Cut Method

Carve and Slice Technique

The Ouidad haircutting technique involves cutting the hair wet. After the basic shape is created, then the stylist decides where to incorporate the Ouidad Carve and Slice technique. This is performed by taking vertical sections of hair below the parietal ridge, pulling the hair out, and gently shaking it to reveal thicker sections within the curls. These thicker areas are then delicately “carved” or “sliced” depending on what the desired result is. Carving removes more hair and is generally used on tighter and thicker curls. Slicing removes less hair and is intended to create volume and shape on thinner looser curls.

The Ouidad Philosophy

The philosophy behind this haircut is that by carving and slicing curly hair in a skillful way, the hairstylist can create a hair shape that causes the curls to fit together like pieces of a puzzle. The intention of this method is to create an attractive haircut and eliminate the “triangle” look, which nobody since the ancient Egyptians seems to find attractive.

Both the Ouidad and the Deva cutting techniques have benefits, and both require practice to execute well. Ouidad and Deva each have their own styling techniques as well.

Which cutting style – Deva or Ouidad – have you tried out? Which do you prefer?

Why naturally curly hair should be cut dry

I’m often asked if I cut curly hair dry, and why curly product lines like DevaCurl and Ouidad do or don’t recommend it. It is almost always best to cut naturally curly hair when it is dry. There are a number of reasons for this:

1. Spring factor

Every curl has its own unique spring factor, which is the amount of distance that it will spring up after it is stretched. This spring factor cannot be ascertained when the hair is wet.

2. Curl pattern

In order to create a beautiful haircut that lasts a long time, it is critical for the hairstylist to be able to see where the curls spring to immediately after they are cut. It is common to have varying curl patterns throughout the head. When cut, tighter curls spring up more than looser curls. This can only be accurately judged when the hair is cut dry. If the hair is cut wet, then the hair may become uneven when it dries and tighter curls spring closer to their roots.

3. Shaping

My clients are often amazed when I cut their curly hair dry for the first time. The results are beautiful, and they get to see the shape develop throughout the cutting process. It is easier to see the shape of the haircut develop when the hair is cut dry because the curls fall exactly where they will remain.

4. Framing

Framing the face is much easier to do when the hair is cut dry for the same reason, the shape can be seen immediately.

5. One exception to the rule

An exception to this rule is when the hair is loosely wavy. In this case, it is often more effective to cut the hair when it is wet. This is because loosely wavy hair has a very small spring factor. Also, if you plan to straighten your hair a lot, it is best to cut it wet so that a neat perimeter shape may be created.

How do you get your hair cut? Have you been to a curly hair expert before?