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The Glorious Originality of Your Curly Hair

Your curl pattern is as unique as your fingerprint. This is reason enough to embrace your curls and show them off to the world. I have done the hair of over 5,000 curly haired women and men, and I assure you that no two heads of curly hair are alike. Your curls are an expression of your individuality.

To me, curly hair is the most beautiful type of hair. I find beauty in it’s spontaneity, originality and wildness. Yet, so often do I hear my clients say “I want her curls” as they point to a photo on their phone or to some other woman in the salon. That is like saying “I want her fingerprint.” It’s impossible!

The beauty of nature is indisputable. Everybody is awed by a colorful sunset, the expanse of an ocean and the waves crashing to the shore, the sight of gigantic mountains, a flower filled valley, and the sensations of a passing stream. To me, the beauty of nature comes from its wildness. The same applies to your curly hair. Your hair is a force of nature and so it is different every day. Although many of my clients want me to “tame” their curls, I tell them it can’t be done. I can shape your curls, nourish your waves, and create a look that you will probably like more often than not. But there is no way that I am going to tame your curls.

No matter how hard you try to control your hair, something will come along to unleash the wildness of your waves. The humidity of the air, for example, or a gust of wind. Your hair has a silent bond with the natural world that can never be controlled. And I assure you, your curls are powerful. It is in the wildness of your hair that your physical being unites with your spirit. I think this is why so many woman treasure every last millimeter of it. The golden light of your soul is expressing itself through your gloriously wild hair. How lucky you are to have a physical expression of your spirit framing your face every day.

New Year’s Resolutions for Your Curls

New year, new you, right? Well, if you’ve struggled with getting your curls to cooperate, are tired of fighting frizz, or if you’ve spent years straightening your curls away, it can be! Just like any other New Year’s Resolution, transitioning into a new lifestyle has some challenges. But, if you’re looking to finally embrace your naturally curly or wavy hair, then these tips are for you!

How to Embrace Your Naturally Curly Hair in 2018

1. Get to know your curl type

The first step to successfully accomplishing any goal is to know what you’re up against. The same is true for your curly hair, and there is more than one type of curly. Naturally Curly has a great curl quiz that can help you determine your curl type. Keep in mind, if you’ve been straightening out your curls for a while, they may need time to bounce back, so your curl type could change.

2. Become a stalker

If you’ve ever snooped on a friend (read: ex) on social media, you’re a step ahead (go you!). For real, though, you’re going to want to start collecting some info in order to take action. So, start with some recon on your curls. Take notice of how your curls behave. Do they frizz out after only half a day? Does your scalp get oily with certain products? This will help you determine what your curls need.

3. Stop washing your hair

No, you don’t need to stop washing your hair forever. But, you really only need to wash your hair when it’s actually dirty or you’re experiencing build-up. Depending on your curl type, lifestyle and which products you use, that could be anywhere from 2-3 days to 2-3 weeks! The curlier it is, the less you’ll need to wash Experiment with your schedule and don’t wash your until it gets dirty – see how long you can go!

4. Cut out the suds

You’ll probably notice that curly hair shampoo isn’t really shampoo in the traditional sense. That’s because the chemicals that create those suds also happen to strip out your natural oils. Curly and wavy hair is typically drier than straighter hair, so you definitely need to protect the moisture that you do have! Try looking for a no-poo shampoo or try out co-washing, where you skip the shampoo altogether and just ‘wash’ with conditioner. Fair warning, your hair will be greasier at first until your curls stop over-producing those oils your old shampoo has been stripping out.

5. Reward good behavior

Now that you know your curl type and what your curls want from you, you can reward those curls for their good behavior. And what do curls love? Moisture! Look at product lines specifically designed for curly and wavy hair (like DevaCurl and Ouidad). These will be packed with moisture and help your curls find their natural balance. Curly product lines are usually developed cohesively, so you’ll see better results by remaining brand loyal. That said, find the products that work for you and your hair, and you’ll never have to look back.

6. Invest in 1 amazing tool

Learning how to use temperature to harvest your curls will serve you well, especially when setting your curls. Ideally, you should always dry your curls under a cool dryer for an hour (or more), but nobody’s got time for that. Instead, invest in the one tool that will make your curls look ah-maz-ing in 20 mins or less. A diffuser or diffuser attachment on your hairdryer is a miracle worker. You never want to blow hot air at your curls, which is why you don’t want to use the standard hairdryer’s mouthpiece: that just causes frizz.

7. Learn the hacks

Pineapple, Plopping, Satin Sleeping: what do these things have in common? They’re all curly hair hacks that can seriously improve your curls. How you wash, dry, comb, and sleep on your hair definitely impact your curls. That means it’s time to get your study on! Swap your towel for a t-shirt. Sleep on a satin pillow. Pile your hair on top of your head like a pineapple before you go to bed. Don’t brush your curls, finger through them with a wide-toothed comb. And there are so many more!

8. Find a stylist who knows curly hair

We’ve all had bad haircuts, but curlies have had more than their fair share. This is simply because cutting curly hair is completely different from cutting straight hair. For starters, you often cut curly hair dry. Find a stylist who’s received curly hair training, or better yet, specializes in curly hair. These stylists will not only know how to cut your hair based on your curl pattern in style that frames your face, but they’ll also be able to give you tips on curl care and product lines.

Have you made the transition to naturally curly? What was the hardest part? What did you wish you had known?

The Difference Between The Deva Cut and Ouidad Haircut

Many of my curly haired clients ask me what the difference is between the Deva Cut and the Ouidad Haircut. Having been trained and certified in both techniques, I am qualified to answer this question. In this article, I don’t intend to give my opinion of which method that I prefer, I will simply explain the differences.

Before the Cut

Both techniques claim to be the best method of cutting naturally curly hair, yet they are extremely different. Before cutting the hair, both the Deva and the Ouidad technique requires the hairstylist to perform a thorough examination of the hair. The Stylist looks for differing curl patterns throughout the head, noting density, shape and hairline patterns. Face shape and body shape are always taken into consideration when determining the most attractive hair cut. Once the unique attributes of the client are assessed, then a hair design plan is created that will accentuate attractive features and detract from unappealing ones.

Deva Cut Method

The Deva Philosophy

A hairstylist who employs the Deva cutting method will always cut the hair dry, cutting each curl ringlet by ringlet. The hairstylist cuts the ends of the hair, never texturizing or thinning the hair. The philosophy behind this is that slicing into the interior of a curly haircut has the potential to create frizz.

The Deva Technique

In the Deva technique, a perimeter is established first, usually starting around the face and then going the sides and toward the back. Curl pattern and density are analyzed to determine where on the head to begin elevating and creating layers. Thinner hair will require a greater percentage of the hair to fall to the perimeter to create a fuller look. If the hair is thin, then a smaller percentage of the hair will be available to create elevation and interior movement. Thick hair necessitates the opposite and elevation can begin farther down the nape. When done well, the final result will be hair that lays in an attractive shape and accentuates the unique curl pattern of the individual.

Ouidad Cut Method

Carve and Slice Technique

The Ouidad haircutting technique involves cutting the hair wet. After the basic shape is created, then the stylist decides where to incorporate the Ouidad Carve and Slice technique. This is performed by taking vertical sections of hair below the parietal ridge, pulling the hair out, and gently shaking it to reveal thicker sections within the curls. These thicker areas are then delicately “carved” or “sliced” depending on what the desired result is. Carving removes more hair and is generally used on tighter and thicker curls. Slicing removes less hair and is intended to create volume and shape on thinner looser curls.

The Ouidad Philosophy

The philosophy behind this haircut is that by carving and slicing curly hair in a skillful way, the hairstylist can create a hair shape that causes the curls to fit together like pieces of a puzzle. The intention of this method is to create an attractive haircut and eliminate the “triangle” look, which nobody since the ancient Egyptians seems to find attractive.

Both the Ouidad and the Deva cutting techniques have benefits, and both require practice to execute well. Ouidad and Deva each have their own styling techniques as well.

Which cutting style – Deva or Ouidad – have you tried out? Which do you prefer?